Search found 185 matches

by Digitaltruth
Sun Nov 28, 2004 3:56 pm
Forum: The Digitaltruth Forum
Topic: Rodinal and NEW Tri-X (400TX)
Replies: 1
Views: 8455

As it states in the chart, you should use the old times as your starting points. Although some users report different times, in general I think this can be put down to differences in processing techniques or the use of erroneous data which had never been revised. Dick Dickerson and Silvia Zawsdzki p...
by Digitaltruth
Mon Nov 22, 2004 5:44 am
Forum: The Digitaltruth Forum
Topic: Tri-X with D-76 @ 1+3
Replies: 2
Views: 10675

I'd recommend a starting point of 14-15 minutes at 1+3 for Tri-X. Let us know how it works out.
by Digitaltruth
Fri Nov 19, 2004 11:19 am
Forum: The Digitaltruth Forum
Topic: Fixer for Pyrocat-HD
Replies: 2
Views: 8710

We recommend either Formulary Fixer 24 (powder) or TF-4 (liquid), both of which can be found on this page:

http://www.digitaltruth.com/store/formulary03.html
by Digitaltruth
Mon Nov 01, 2004 1:19 pm
Forum: The Digitaltruth Forum
Topic: FG7 and Bergger
Replies: 0
Views: 9587

You can extrapolate a starting point by looking at the times listed for other films. In this case I would guesstimate a starting point of around 10-12 minutes.
by Digitaltruth
Sat Oct 30, 2004 11:46 am
Forum: The Digitaltruth Forum
Topic: Ilforld FP3 & 30yr old Boots Branded 35mm film
Replies: 0
Views: 9129

If the film has not been frozen during this time, then the likely speed loss is quite significant. I would double the suggested times and hope for the best.
by Digitaltruth
Thu Oct 28, 2004 1:33 pm
Forum: The Digitaltruth Forum
Topic: how to get rid of marblized effect on negs?
Replies: 0
Views: 10405

Its hard to say what the cause of this problem is without being able to see the negatives. A high wash temperature could cause reticulation which might be what you are describing, but it would have to be near boiling and even then I doubt this is the cause. I would suggest trying to rewash a single ...
by Digitaltruth
Fri Oct 01, 2004 1:43 pm
Forum: The Digitaltruth Forum
Topic: Rodinal=Fomadon R09?
Replies: 1
Views: 10259

As far as I am aware, R09 is the same as the original Rodinal formula. This differs slightly from the modern Rodinal, but the times listed should be pretty good starting points.
by Digitaltruth
Wed Sep 29, 2004 1:39 pm
Forum: The Digitaltruth Forum
Topic: Tri-X 320 + Rodinal
Replies: 3
Views: 14773

Although there are no times listed for the new version of Tri-X 320, you can use the old times listed for TX 400 as guidelines. The differences between the emulsions are not great, so you should get solid negatives from any of these times, and can then work out a more accurate time for future rolls ...
by Digitaltruth
Tue Sep 28, 2004 4:58 pm
Forum: The Digitaltruth Forum
Topic: Tri-X 320 + Rodinal
Replies: 3
Views: 14773

Rodinal yields the most grain and contrast at lower dilutions (eg. 1+25). If you use a higher dilution (eg. 1+75) the contrast and grain are reduced. The 1+100 dilution should be used on a test roll first, as it can produce quite flat and thin negs. 1+50 is a good starting point for trial and error....
by Digitaltruth
Tue Sep 28, 2004 4:55 pm
Forum: The Digitaltruth Forum
Topic: B&W Print Scan Quality
Replies: 3
Views: 12416

If you want the best quality you need to scan the negatives, but I presume that isn't your point. A glossy surface paper has the greatest contrast range, and fiber-based paper is capable of giving the best detail and tonality, but I'm not sure how this would be translated in a scan. Its possible tha...
by Digitaltruth
Mon Sep 20, 2004 3:39 pm
Forum: The Digitaltruth Forum
Topic: Development in Jobo ATL 1000
Replies: 1
Views: 13030

Hi Guy,

The standard recommendation is to decrease the times used for handheld inversion tanks by 15%. This is only a rule of thumb, however, as different emulsions respond differently to agitation, but nonetheless it is the best starting point.
by Digitaltruth
Wed Sep 15, 2004 6:36 pm
Forum: The Digitaltruth Forum
Topic: harmless paperdeveloper?
Replies: 0
Views: 13280

Coffee and tea have been experimented with over the years as staining-type developers for film. There is a good article on the RIT web site that also makes reference to using coffee as a print developer. Try it and see. Expect some long development times though: http://www.rit.edu/~andpph/text-coffe...
by Digitaltruth
Wed Sep 15, 2004 6:20 pm
Forum: The Digitaltruth Forum
Topic: Blank Film
Replies: 1
Views: 11650

If the frame numbers do not appear then the film was never developed prior to fixing. The fixer clears everything that isn't developed. Even if the film was not exposed, the frame numbers would appear after development as these are pre-exposed onto the film edge. The usual explanation for this is th...
by Digitaltruth
Thu Aug 26, 2004 6:10 pm
Forum: The Digitaltruth Forum
Topic: Development
Replies: 0
Views: 11605

It depends which film it is. Cut off about 1' (30cm) of unexposed film and develop it for 5-10 minutes in full strength D76 (time does not need to be accurate). Fix and rinse. You should now be able to see the edge markings (frame numbers etc) which are pre-exposed. Hopefully, you will find the name...
by Digitaltruth
Tue Aug 24, 2004 8:54 pm
Forum: The Digitaltruth Forum
Topic: mixing xtol and rodinal
Replies: 3
Views: 18930

Good luck.

Let us know how the experiment works out.