If you belonged to a camera club there are members who will GIVE you enlargers ! I have been given a Durst M305 colour enlarger recently and I was also given a Durst M601 6x6 format by an 'Old Gentleman' who was moving away and he found me from a mention of the Camera Club in the local newspaper.

you don't say WHAT film it is: B/W, Colour Neg or Pos: when I was a Part-time Tutor at Barking College Photography dept. the students had Cambo,De Vere and an MPP 4x5 to use. The students had to make a 'step-wedge' exposure on one sheet of film and develop it first - but you don't want to do that; w...

I thought I would share my technique with KB14 with you:I have used Beutler in the past,but did some copy work on some bulk Jessops KB14 marked 'made in Croatia'dated 1992. I was using a Pentax SV+50mm SMC Macro-Takumar lens, copy stand and two lights, 60watt energy-saving type in reflectors at 45 d...

One 'reciprocity failure' effect you might experience with LONG time is an increase in contrast on negative materials-it is the opposite to the effect of very SHORT times such as fast flash where the negatives need extra development to combat lower contrast.

My 'first camera' was my Mum's Kodak Brownie Hawkeye Box that she got by saving Black Cat cigarette coupons(as she didn't smoke it took a LONG TIME!) I started photography in 1951 at the East Ham Grammar School Photo-Soc.where I first saw boys doing contact printing in the chemmy lab after school on...

Sounds like some light exposure during development,giving some 'Pseudo-Solarisation'.

I think you may have it wrong in your description - overdeveloped negs are dense and contrasty,not 'almost clear', and underdeveloped negs are very 'thin' in density not as you described, dark. I think it's the EXPOSURE wrong- the almost clear negs are under-exposed and the dark ones are over-exposed.

You DID use a thermometer to measure the temperature did you-not just guess? In a school I was trying to help the teacher didn't realise the importance of temperature for developing films and was just giving the time in the instructions sheet but at a very LOW temperature!

I don't think he would get the orange mask by using B/W chemistry as the mask is formed with colour developer. I think newspapers in London would process colour film in B/W chemistry if there was a 'Hot News' pic on the film so they could get 'something' printable but really it is a waste of time an...

I have been wanting to try FX2 but I do not have the 'special' Potassium Carbonate ( the crystalline version Crawley says) only the powder type - could I use THAT do you think? I DID use FX1 years ago with Kodak Panatomic X when I had free access to distilled water and I could make up the very dilut...

Pirate; thanks for your message : I don't belong to 'Club Rollei' as it was but I have found their site once - it has moved from Jersey - I have found the 'Rollei White Face'collection site and a site with the serial numbers and dates of Rolleis.

Yes, I have 2.8F Planar (1961),3.5F Planar (1962-3)and a Rolleicord Vb f3.5 Xenar (1962) I USE them all with REAL FILM! I went to the 1940's Severn Valley Railway re-enactment weekend with my 'cord Vb loaded firstly with Ilford XP2 Super 400ASA and when it ran out loaded with 1996 Kodak T-max 100 rated at 50ASA as it was old and got some good photos. I developed XP2 in C41 and T-Max 100 in Crawley's Acutol S Formula 1+1 for 9 mins @ 68oF and got good negs.
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1940's Loung/Kitchen T-max 100 1/30th at f6.3 + small amount flash.
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1940's couple-T-max 100 + small amount Mecablitz 45CT1 flash
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The guard whistling off the train: XP2 Super no flash fill.
The sepia ones I toned in PhotoShop 7

I have such a camera too: on the shutter speed dial there is a section in GREEN with numbers- you can set it anywhere in the green and you will get 'B'exposure setting; use a cable release with a lock if you want to give quite long exposures.

I have always wanted to try this formula but the 'Meritol' was unobtainable. I think you have to make it as an'addition product' with PPD and Catchetol

'Promicrol' in it's new liquid form gives a very 'plucky'negative and you can give less exposure so I should try that developer, or the Ilford Microphen diluted 1+4 and give it 45 minutes, occasional agitation.