PeanutHorst: I have just defrosted my 'photographic fridge' : in there are two packs of 10 rolls ORWO NP22 120 size dated 04-1993 ( a good vintage ) If I had a web-cam I could hold them up and show you thus making you very envious !!!!! Pity not enough people would buy the ORWO films when they were ...

Have I ever used HC110 ? Only ONCE I remember when I was a part-time photography tutor on Barking College, Essex (UK), and the stores used to hand out some to students; like a thick syrup which had to be heavily diluted but was a bit fierce if you over-developed films !

As you are nearer to Japan than the UK you can probably get the Japanese films which are not imported into UK : I have never seen Konica Pan B/W film here, only the colour neg and slide emulsions ( all now discontinued since Konica-Minolta crashed out of Photography!)

I used Super xx film in the late 1950's. I had an Ikoflex 120 rollfilm camera at the time. Now it is so badly outdated you will have to think what to do as the latent image must have faded and the fog level increased. It has been written somewhere that Kodak DK50 developer undiluted for 12 minutes a...

Yes, it DOES give high contrast in my opinion on both resin coated and fibre papers, as I have used some (given) and got good results, even on outdated Ilford Ilfospeed which quickly goes soft!

If they are magenta stains that is common with T-Max films; they require extra fixing time and a good wash to remove the colour from the base. Just noticed: you said the film was TRI-X: well, it may be that you have exposed it to bright light then done the re-fixing,but in the meantime the unfixed s...

Sorry, just found this thread: Well, I too have seen these 'Old Formulae' and was very interested in the MCM100 BUT the 'Meritol' is no longer available any where to buy but one could make it if you had access to a laboratory as you needed 'molecular amounts 'of metol and PPD I remember to make an '...

If the package is unopened it will be OK to use as I use very old chemicals and they still work from powders.

Sorry about the layout on above: messed it up on the keyboard trying to be too clever and use the space.

Whatever happened to Crawley's FX18 film developer? When it was first published and sold in tins same as Acutol S I made it up to the formula and tried it out at 1+1 and 1+3 but I never see it mentioned now. Times for 1+1 Dilution: Tri-X 35mm 10 mins RF 12 mins Phenidone 0.1gm Pan f 35mm 9 mins Hydr...

I think he is talking about joining two exposures in photoshop from 4x5 negs. The negs would have to be scanned first. Why not use a 'compensating' developer and you would get the night scenes OK without all the digital trouble. Your technique of rating FP4+ and giving more for reciprocity failure s...

Thiourea and Thiocarbamide are the same thing, used in sepia toning of prints; BE CAREFUL with the POWDER as it is CARCENOGENIC. Don't inhale the powder or get it on your fingers. Toning: 1 teaspoon Pot. Ferricyanide, 1/2 teaspoon Pot. Bromide,in 1 litre water. 1/2 teaspoon Thiourea, couple of pelle...

I've got dozens of good cassettes waiting to be reloaded BUT I am in UK! I sit on the darkroom floor, lay out cassettes in a row (try not to knock them over in the dark!) with their sticky tape open ready, then open the bullk film tin, pull up some film, attach it to the spool tape, then wind it kee...

I think it's a well known fact that ID11 increases its activity on standing for a long time without being used, but I think I have the same effect with a batch of Crawley Formula FX4 I made up to the formula. A fresh FP4+ I did at 1+ 1 dilution came out over developed, then I have done an outdated (...

You must find a 'professional' laboratory or the local processors will say they do only colour processing. It's really MUCH CHEAPER and EASIER to do it yourself by your home sink; you do not need a darkroom to process FILM; you can load it into the developing tank in a cupboard under the stairs in t...