If you use a "stop-fix" you won't need a stop bath.

I think this is such nonsense.
Modern film and paper emulsions are much more sophisticatated than just ten years ago much less seventy five years past. So to use these ancient formulas is an exercise in mental "jumping jacks ."

iT WILL DO THE JOB -- SILVER HALIDE IS SILVER HALIDE-- DEVELOP TO IMAGE.

You will be very pleased using Clayton F 76 plus developer.
Dilute 1+9
process for 5 minutes

Lamenting the loss of Ilford products(i.e. Perceptol) is a waste of time and energy. There is at least two powder products both metol and phenidone based that will provide outstanding results for less money.

Clayton F60 or F 76 plus work very well with TriX and othe B & W films.

This is not a " fix" problem. This is a low sulfite in the fixer issue. The stain is residual sensitizing dye. Sensitizing dye controls the speed of the film. It is cleared from the film by sodium sulfite in the fixer or in the wash bath. It is not photographic and will not print.

You might have some fun with "LITH " processing.

What does modulate the high lights mean? What testing did you do to determine this result? Can you show me evidence of this phenomenon? Because Infra red film is always "aging," its development time is "hit and miss;" but can be developed well with in a broad range with a gamma 1...

Powder chemicals will react over time just as liquid chemicals will. It is not moisture that oxidizes developers but oxygen. One small pin hole in a package will oxidize the entire package very quickly. Even without the entry of oxygen into the package, the alkalinity in the developer will eventuall...

Old chemicals are never a bargain, throw them away.

I always recommend developing HIE film the same as Tri X.

Hardener has never been a requirement to fix B & W Film. When emulsions were softer and the film was to be processed in a roller transport processor, hardenr was used to protect the film from scratching. When the films was dry, it was not more hard for using hardener. Hardener does not enhance p...

I would recommend that you send your film to DR 5 lab to convert through reversal processing into slides. Check with David Wood www.dr5.com

Once the film is fixed you cannot re develop it to increase the contrast. You can scan the negs and adjust them in the computer. But for beginners this is a good lesson to learn. PROCESSING CORRECTLY IS CRITICAL.