Night Photography

Film Photography & Darkroom discussion

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Kevin_r_obrien1
Posts: 7
Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 5:01 pm
Location: Scotland UK

Night Photography

Post by Kevin_r_obrien1 »

Can anyone help me here?

Although I have been into photography for a long time I have never taken night shots. What I want to do is shoot seascapes but where I'm going there are no lights. I will be shooting under moonlight or maybe not even that I want to shoot just before light or just after dark I will be using 100asa t-max film. does anyone have a guidline to what exposure I should start with? it will be very much appreciated

Kevin.

Wirehead
Posts: 48
Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 12:58 pm

Post by Wirehead »

Night photography is one of my specialties.

IMHO, Fuji Neopan 100 Acros is a better bet than T-Max 100, on account of the improved reciprocity.

Assuming a full moon, over the course of an hour or so, you will generally go from exposure readings of ISO 100 f/16 1/100 to ISO 100 f/2.8 1m. Given that this shift happens in an hour or so, you really need to use a meter until the light's finished changing to night.

On a cloudy night or with only partial moon, you can easily go beyond to many-hour exposures that might be beyond the reciprocity range of your film.

With city lights, you can have more light than that. Sometimes more in the range of ISO 100 f/2.8 8s in more built-up areas.

I generally guess based on experience or cheat and use a digital camera. I've also gotten decent results using an online calculator

Kevin_r_obrien1
Posts: 7
Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 5:01 pm
Location: Scotland UK

Post by Kevin_r_obrien1 »

Hiya.
Sorry I'm late in replying but I've been away for a couple of days. Thanks for your tips on exposure times I will go out and try them, If anyone else has any ideas I would be grateful.

Thanks again

Kevin.

brooklynkid
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2007 9:52 am
Location: Mount Laurel, New Jersey

Night Photography

Post by brooklynkid »

I used to do some night pictures. The starting point on ASA 100 film was lens wide open, 5 second exposure for city scenes.

CJBas
Posts: 35
Joined: Thu Aug 02, 2007 4:06 pm

Post by CJBas »

If your light source is in the picture (of course this is not he case in seascapes most of the time) such as street scenes, then bear in mind that your scene has an extreme contrast ratio from where you want to keep detail in hte highlights as well as int he shadows.

Here's something that has worked for me for years: Use ISO 400 film and expose if at ISO 50. Then give it 1/8 normal development.

What you'll be doing is essentially raising the floor of your nebatige by giving 8x normal exposure and insuring shadow detail. Meanwhile you'll be holding back the development of the light source itself by only giving 1/8 the development.

I've shot scenes lit by bare light bulbs that retain the detail of the bulb itself (the light source) while giving full shadow details.

Yes, it does take some very long exposures. But that also gives you opportunities toto move things around, move people in and out, recruit family and friends as actors. All sorts of spooky and supernatural effects are at your disposal.

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